In Erbil, the capital city of Kurdistan Region, the crack of the cricket bat and the cheers of Indian and Pakistani players fill the stadium’s air. It is a sound far removed from the gunfire and tension back home, where the latest armed conflict between India and Pakistan has raged for days. Here, on a sunny pitch, culture and sport unite people from historically divided nations.
Every Friday, under Erbil’s warm sun, players from India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, and Sri Lanka gather in colorful sportswear. With every swing of the bat and cheer from the sidelines, they celebrate a game and a small act of peace, a reminder that beyond politics, people crave connection, friendship, and laughter, not conflict.
Introducing cricket
While informal matches have been common among expat communities, April marked a new milestone. A one-day tournament was held at the Ankawa Sports Academy, with the participation of 12 teams. This day-long festival of competition was sport in its purest form.
Anand Vijayakumar, 36, an Indian national and one of the organizers, told Kurdistan Chronicle that although cricket is associated with Indian history, the teams in Erbil are wonderfully diverse. “We have Indian, Pakistani, Bangladeshi, and Sri Lankan players – the whole talent of South Asia,” he said.
Despite this growing passion for cricket among the expat community, local interest remains limited. “Most people prefer to play football, and no Kurds have joined the teams,” Vijayakumar said. “Most people in Erbil don’t even know the game is being played here.”
As the tournament kicked off at 7:00 am, Vijayakumar offered a primer on cricket for local spectators. To the untrained eye, cricket might seem complicated, but for those who grew up with it, it is a language spoken through swings, runs, and silence between deliveries.
Vijayakumar explained further: “After the first innings, the teams switch roles. Batsmen score by running between two wickets. If the ball crosses the boundary after touching the ground, it’s four runs. If it crosses without touching the ground, that’s six.”
A batsman can be dismissed in several ways – bowled out, caught, or run out. These intricacies, while technical, are poetry and ritual to fans.
The tools of the game reflect this reverence: a leather ball weighing 155-163 grams, a willow bat up to 96.5 cm long, gloves, pads, and helmets – gear worn like armor by guardians of a cherished tradition.
South Asian culture
According to unofficial statistics from India’s Consulate General in Erbil, over 8,000 Indian workers live in the Kurdistan Region. With them, they have brought not just their labor and talent, but a deep love for cricket.
Among them is Harpreet Murkhraj, 37, from Punjab, India. He has lived in Erbil for 13 years and is the captain of ELS King, whose team won the tournament. Murkhraj plays every Friday, but dreams of holding more organized tournaments and building a larger stadium in the city.
“Back in India, we played every day,” he said. “It is part of our identity. Now, I want to keep that spirit alive here.”
A significant number of players from the 12 cricket teams in Erbil are from Pakistan, including 23-year-old Ibrahim Akram from Karachi. After six days of work, Akram finds solace on the cricket field when he plays on the weekend. “In Erbil, cricket is not just a sport. It’s therapy. It’s a memory. It’s a breath of fresh air,” he said.
Pawan Vikrala, 24, from Hyderabad, India, has worked as an accountant for a private company in Erbil for six years. He started playing cricket at 13 and did not know it was played here until he stumbled upon a local match. Now, he is a regular.
A cultural inheritance
As the sun set and the final ball was bowled at the tournament, ELS King emerged as champions, with 99.5 points. Ankawa United took second, with 61.6 points. Nikhil of ELS KING was named the best player of the tournament.
Cricket has deep roots in India. Introduced by British merchants and soldiers in 1721, it blossomed after India’s independence in 1947, evolving into an important part of the country’s culture.
Now a fiercely loved and kept cultural inheritance, the sport’s popularity has blossomed across the subcontinent. The Indian Premier League, launched in 2008, is now the most-watched and highest grossing cricket league in the world. At its highest level, international competitions like the Cricket World Cup and World Test Championship also bring together the strongest teams on the planet.
Here in Erbil, far from the stadium lights of Mumbai or Lahore, the game still matters – perhaps even more. Because for those who gather on Fridays, cricket is not just about winning. It is about belonging. It is about remembering. It is about home.
Zirak Tariq is Kurdish journalist based in Erbil, Kurdistan Region.
