At the 13th British Kebab Awards, Kurdish chefs do more than serve food – they shape a legacy.
In a ballroom bathed in crystal light, where whispers of expectation floated above starched linen and the faint scent of grilled meat clung to the air, over 1,500 guests took their seats. It was a night not for politics or diplomacy – though a few political faces were scattered among the tables – but for something humbler and, perhaps, more universally understood: kebab.
The British Kebab Awards, now in their 13th year, have become a peculiar fixture of the UK’s cultural calendar – a celebration of sizzling skewers and garlic sauces as well as migration, enterprise, and identity. Over 4,000 restaurants apply each year. Two hundred reach the final stage. A small, lucky handful take home trophies for categories ranging from “Best Kebab in Scotland” to “Best Newcomer.” The mood is competitive, but the applause is warm, and year after year, one truth endures: Kurdish chefs dominate.
Scotland’s best kebab
Among this year’s recipients stood Yalmaz Shana, a soft-spoken restaurateur from Northern Kurdistan (southeastern Turkey). Originally from the city of Bingol, he now runs a modest but much-loved eatery in North London with the help of his wife and two daughters. As he stepped onto the stage, Shana offered a brief, heartfelt thanks:
“It’s an honor to be recognized here as a Kurd from Northern Kurdistan. We’ll continue bringing the true flavor of Kurdish kebab to this country. This is just the beginning.”
But the night’s most thunderous applause belonged to Majed Badrekhan, a chef from Western Kurdistan (northeastern Syria), who has, over the past four years, achieved something close to cult status in Scotland. For the fourth year in a row, he claimed the title of “Best Kebab in Scotland.”
Seated beside him was, Michelle Welsh, a Member of Parliament from Glasgow – Badrekhan’s adopted city – who leaned in and, with the measured pride of a mentor, said: “Majed is a model of determination, culture, and excellence. He represents the best of our communities.”
Badrekhan, his voice thick with emotion, offered more than thanks in his speech. He offered philosophy: “Winning this for the fourth time is personally rewarding, but it’s also a statement. We Kurds have a rich culture, deep skills, and a cuisine that tells our story. Food is not just about taste – it’s identity.”
A community’s impact
The Kebab Awards are the brainchild of Ibrahim Dogus, a restaurateur, entrepreneur, and one-time Labour Party candidate, himself a Kurd from Northern Kurdistan. For Dogus, the event was born out of necessity – not commercial, but communal.
“I saw so many Kurdish chefs creating excellence,” he said in an interview. “They deserved recognition – so we built a platform to give them that.”
Though open to all backgrounds, the awards have become something of a de facto tribute to Kurdish culinary achievement. Dogus does not shy away from the pattern.
“It’s a testament to our community’s impact on food and on the economy more broadly,” he said. “Kurdish kebab is more than a dish. It’s a message.”
Among the evening’s guests was Nadhim Zahawi, the former Chancellor of the Exchequer and one of the most prominent Kurdish politicians in the UK. Zahawi, who has made a habit of attending the event each year, spoke less about identity and more about impact.“This sector contributes over £2.8 billion annually to the UK’s economy,” he said. “That’s something we should all be proud of.”
A cultural testimony
Even Sadiq Khan, the Mayor of London, could not resist a moment of culinary confession. With a grin that suggested diplomatic mischief, he told the crowd:
“My favorite kebab? It has to be the Kurdish kebab in Hackney. But don’t ask me to name the place. I visit too many great ones to pick just one. What I can say is: Kurdish kebab is truly delicious.”
The evening wore on – a blur of shimmering dresses, trays of meze, and camera flashes. But beneath the festivity was a deeper current, one not always named. In a nation where immigration often sparks debate before it sparks celebration, the British Kebab Awards are, in their own fragrant, festive way, an act of cultural testimony. They offer not just prizes, but a platform; not just applause, but belonging.
And as Kurdish chefs stood beneath chandeliers, shaking hands with ministers and smiling for cameras, they were serving more than food. They were serving story, memory, and identity – grilled to perfection.