The Hawrami klash, a traditional Kurdish shoe, is more than mere traditional footwear. Shaped by Kurdish people’s deep-rooted connection to their environment and nature, the shoe has evolved into a modern fashion choice and an enduring symbol of Kurdish cultural heritage, craftsmanship, and identity.

Originating from the Hawraman region in Eastern Kurdistan (northwestern Iran), the history of klash making reaches back over 1,500 years. Historically worn by males and females alike, over time the klash has become a symbol of both local and national pride when paired with traditional Kurdish clothing during festivals, weddings, and other cultural events. Additionally, klash have become the symbol of local entrepreneurship and a good source of income. Its multi-purpose use and durability have made it a mainstay in the daily lives of the Kurdish people throughout the four seasons of Kurdistan.

To Hawrami locals, klash production is not simply labor, business, and craft; it is an art form passed down from one generation to another. Each pair tells a story of the region’s history, the skill of its makers, and the resilience of its people. Surprisingly, despite the challenges of modernization, the klash has local and internation markets, with it even being sold in large international bazaars in the Kurdish diaspora.

Traditional and modern, local and international

The klash stands out from contemporary shoe brands and footwear because of its distinctive ambidextrous design and functionality. Not having a left or right side allows the wearer to use either shoe on either foot, making it incredibly versatile and practical – and more importantly, feet-friendly.

Additionally, the klash has elements that are made entirely from eco-friendly natural materials, such as wool, cotton, and leather. Biodegradable and eco-friendly, there materials make the klash an environmentally sustainable choice.

The shoes are also comfortable and durable. While soft and flexible, they are also sturdy and withstand years of use. They also easy to clean, making the klash a practical choice for everyday wear.

Culturally and aesthetically, the klash reflects rich artistic traditions of the Kurdish people. Even though it remains deeply rooted in tradition, it has evolved to meet the demands of modern fashion. It is available in a wide range of colors and designs that match various tastes and preferences. From classic white and blue to bold reds and yellows, there is now a klash for every occasion, as modern trends have increased the popularity of the traditional Hawrami design.

Wasta Abubakr Tawellayi, an experienced klash-maker from Hawraman, was an innovator in klash design. In the early 20th century, Abubakr (1901-1984) revolutionized the craft by introducing new techniques and materials, such as silk thread and reinforced soles. His designs not only enhanced the shoe’s durability, but also elevated its aesthetic appeal, making it a sought-after item both locally and internationally.

A labor of love

The process of making the shoe is complex and time-consuming, requiring exceptional skill and patience. Each pair goes through several stages of production, involving multiple shoe-makers that each handle a specific aspect of the process.

The material preparation first consists of dying and preparing the wool and cotton for weaving, which requires precision as well as attention to detail to make sure the colors match. The upper part of the shoe is woven by hand using a traditional loom, which involves creating unique shapes and designs. The shoe’s sole, on the other hand, is made from layers of compressed wool or leather, which are stitched together to create a durable base. The finishing touches – decorative needlework and stitching – are then added to the upper part to the sole.

The entire process can take about one week to complete, depending on the complexity of the design and the experience of shoemaker. Despite the difficulties of this hand-woven and handmade shoe, the shoemakers take great pride in their work, knowing that each pair is a testament to their skill and dedication.

A symbol of Kurdish identity

The klash has gained popularity beyond the borders of Kurdistan in recent years, and globalization has made it easier to reach markets beyond the region. With its expanded reach, it has become a symbol of Kurdish identity and pride, with many Kurds living abroad wear klash during cultural events and celebrations, showcasing their heritage to the world. This has led to increased popularity and demand as well as the emergence of new designs and styles, blending traditional footwear brands with contemporary fashion trends. Modern designs often incorporate elements such as metallic threads and even modern fabrics, making them suitable for a wider audience. Despite these innovations, the essence of the klash remains unchanged, as it continues to manifest the spirit of Kurdish culture and tradition.

Nevertheless, the craft faces several challenges, including the decline in the number of skilled shoemakers and the rising cost of materials. These factors are directing younger people to pursue more profitable professions. There is, however, hope for the future as several organizations and individuals are working to preserve and promote the art of klash making through workshops, exhibitions, and cultural festivals, aiming to raise awareness about the cultural and historical significance of the klash and to inspire a new generation of klash makers.

Social and economic impact

The cultural significance of the klash means that it is frequently worn at significant life events, including national holidays, religious ceremonies, and marriages. Since the shoe represents luck and prosperity, it is also a common gift among Kurds.

At the same time, its durability makes it common choice for people in rural areas. Its natural materials offer comfort in a variety of weather conditions and its robust shape makes it perfect for lengthy walks. Many young people in urban areas have even made the klash a fashion statement by adding it to their contemporary collections.

In the Hawraman area, production is a significant economic activity. Sales provide livelihoods for many families and, since both men and women can find work in the trade, the community as a whole has become more economically empowered.

However, klash makers have faced difficulties due to the growing cost of materials as well as the drop in demand for handcrafted goods. As a result, some have begun looking to establish new domestic and foreign markets, aiming to increase sales and guarantee the sustainability of the craft by positioning the klash as a distinctive and superior product.

The future of the klash

As the klash evolves, it is essential to strike a balance between innovation and tradition. While new designs and approaches can help it reach a larger audience, preserving the ancient techniques and principles that define its uniqueness is equally important. One way to achieve this is by integrating the klash into modern fashion while maintaining its cultural significance. For example, designers can work with traditional artisans to create contemporary renditions that appeal to younger generations. At the same time, efforts should be made to chronicle and preserve the traditional skills and stories behind the shoe, so that they are not lost to history.

Hawrami klash is more than a shoe; it represents resilience, ingenuity, and ethnic pride. From its humble origins in the mountains of Kurdistan to its place on the global stage, the klash has withstood the test of time, adapting to changing trends while remaining true to its roots. As we celebrate the shoe’s artistry and craftsmanship, we also honor the rich cultural heritage of the Kurdish people, ensuring this timeless tradition continues to thrive for generations to come.

Whether worn during a celebratory event or as a symbol of ethnic identity, the klash exemplifies the Kurdish people’s enduring spirit and unwavering commitment to their homeland and traditions. By preserving and promoting this unique craft, we not only support artisans in sustaining their livelihoods, but also safeguard a cultural history as vibrant and enduring as the people who created it.

Peshraw Mahdi is a freelance journalist and photographer with substantial experience in the field, having worked for numerous media agencies over several years. He has won multiple awards in photojournalism.