On a sweltering August day in Kadikoy, a district of Istanbul, my university friend Abdulhalik introduced me to a remarkable individual. At first glance, I assumed he was a journalist or documentary filmmaker, given his outdoor attire, backpack, and warm smile. However, as our conversation unfolded, I discovered that he was none other than Mehmet Sah Gozen, a professional mountain climber from Diyarbakir.
Gozen made history as one of the first climbers from Northern Kurdistan (southeastern Turkey) to conquer K2, the world’s second highest and most perilous peak. At an altitude of 6,100 meters on K2, he proudly raised the Kurdistan flag. Now, with his sights set on Mount Everest – the highest mountain on Earth – Gozen aims to wave the Kurdistan flag there this fall.
Gozen was born in 1964 into a prosperous family in Dercimt (Yesilburc) village of Diyarbakir’s Lice District. In 1974, his family relocated to central Diyarbakir. He completed his primary education in Lice and attended middle and high school in Diyarbakir.
However, the 1980 military coup in Turkey interrupted his academic journey, leading him to join the Kurdish political movement. Between 1982 and 1983, he endured imprisonment in Diyarbakir Prison, notorious for its harsh conditions. After his release, he ventured into trade in Istanbul and later worked as a contractor in Bodrum before returning to Diyarbakir with his wife and three children: Servan, Berfin, and Rotinda.
The mountaineering spirit of the Kurds
Gozen reflects on his deep-rooted passion for mountaineering, attributing it to the rugged landscape of his homeland. “I was born in a mountainous village, and every chance I got, I ventured into the mountains,” he explains.
This love for exploration has been a part of him since childhood, and he believes that Kurds inherently possess a mountaineering spirit. His adventures began in earnest in 2015 when he and his wife attempted to climb Mount Suphan. Unfortunately, they were thwarted by a dead phone battery that left them in darkness before reaching the summit. However, Gozen persevered and later successfully conquered Suphan in 2018, solidifying his bond with the mountains.
Gozen has since traversed the breathtaking landscapes of Turkey and several regions of Greater Kurdistan. His passion for mountaineering led him to conquer iconic peaks such as Mount Agri and Cilo, in 2022 and 2023, respectively. Beyond the rugged terrain of Kurdistan, Gozen has also scaled Mount Erciyes, standing at a height of 3,927 meters in Central Anatolia, and Damavand, Iran’s highest peak at an impressive 5,610 meters.
Gozen believes that mountains serve as sanctuaries for all people, and particularly Kurds. He reflects on their historical significance: “Whenever the Kurds are in trouble, they have taken refuge in the mountains; I think the mountains protect and embrace the Kurds.” His adventurous spirit has led him to climb all major peaks in Kurdistan since his initial ascent of Mount Suphan.
A journey of self-discovery
In July 2024, Gozen achieved a remarkable feat by summiting K2, the world’s second-highest mountain at 8,611 meters, nestled in the tri-border region of Pakistan, China, and India. As part of an unprecedented expedition representing both Turkey and Kurdistan, Gozen and his team reached the base camp at an altitude of 5,100 meters. The entire ascent and descent spanned an arduous 23 days.
Reflecting on his experience, Gozen expressed profound emotions upon witnessing such majestic peaks. “Conquering these formidable heights evokes a unique joy,” he shared. “Mountains compel us to confront our place in the universe; they reveal how small we truly are.”
For many mountaineers like him, climbing is not merely a physical challenge, but a journey toward self-awareness and understanding. “Through mountaineering, I’ve gained deeper insights into myself,” he concluded.
According to Gozen, the history of mountaineering dates to the 1800s. Initially a hobby mostly done by the wealthy, mountaineering has evolved over time into a professional sport. Gozen emphasizes that mountaineers must go through a long training and preparation phase, that fitness is important, and that climbs are made with special equipment that is resistant to the cold so that it does not freeze. He says that they carry a load of 10 to 20 kilograms on their backs during the climb and that they are accompanied by mountain people, or sherpas, who guide and carry loads during the climb.
Kurdish pride on an iconic peak
“I want to fly the Kurdistan flag on the summit of Everest,” declares Gozen. Having conquered K2 on July 2, 2024, he has already set his sights on the next prize. Known as the second-highest and most perilous mountain in the world, K2 is often referred to as the “cursed mountain” due to its high fatality rate; approximately 20% of climbers attempting this formidable peak do not survive. Despite these daunting statistics, some 300-350 climbers successfully reach its summit each year.
During his expedition, Gozen proudly hoisted the Kurdistan flag at Concordia Camp, situated at an elevation of 6,100 meters. However, his ultimate aspiration lies in scaling Mount Everest, the tallest peak on Earth. He plans to visit Everest’s base camp this year with hopes of witnessing its majestic summit next year. This journey is not only a matter of personal achievement, but also of representing Kurdish pride on one of the world’s most iconic mountains.
When asked about the significance of this act, the mountaineer passionately shares his thoughts: “The Kurds often find themselves abandoned and unprotected in a world that frequently overlooks their existence. Through these symbolic gestures, I aim to raise awareness about my people and our homeland. By standing at such heights, I want to assert that Kurdistan is real and that we, too, have a place in this world. While the narrative surrounding Kurds often revolves around conflict and valor – which is undeniably true – we also thrive through our achievements in art, literature, sports, and mountaineering.
“My mission is to highlight that our identity extends beyond warfare; we are a vibrant community with diverse contributions. I believe these efforts will significantly enhance the visibility and recognition of our culture,” Gozen said.
Mevlüt Oğuz is a journalist, poet, and activist working in the fields of civil society, culture, and the arts. He is a member of the International Federation of Journalists (IFJ), the Kurdish PEN affiliated to International PEN, and the Istanbul branch of the Human Rights Association (İHD).
