Having spent the last four decades predominantly in the United States, like many Westerners I understood little about the Middle East. My education and travels spanned Asia, Africa, South America, and Europe, but for a long time this region remained an enigma.
As the digital age blossomed, giving me instant access to videos and photos from every corner of the globe, my ideas about the region changed – but I now recognize how these ideas diverged from the reality I would later experience.
My first encounter with Erbil and the Kurdistan Region of Iraq (KRI) was in the summer of 2018, when I was asked to observe the International Montessori School of Erbil as a consultant for the Montessori Foundation. I arrived with a limited understanding and a mild apprehension fed by tales of regional challenges. But I was met by a people brimming with warmth and pride in their culture and city who were eager to share their heritage with me.
Visiting Erbil, the capital of the KRI, fundamentally reshaped my understanding of this part of the world. I discovered that Erbil and the KRI boast one of humanity's richest cultures. Anchoring this ancient city is the UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Erbil Citadel – one of the oldest continuously occupied spaces in the history of humankind. Yet Erbil is more than a repository of historical riches; it is a city of warmth, compassion, and comfort, pulsating with a vibrant economy and boundless opportunities.
The Montessori Foundation is a nonprofit organization based in the United States that was founded in 1992 to support Montessori schools and their leaders worldwide. Its mission is to help Montessori educators and schools serve students throughout the world using the Montessori Method.
The Montessori Method is a non-traditional model of education inspired by Dr. Maria Montessori and is one of the world's most significant independent models of education. While entire books have been written about Montessori, here are a few distinguishing characteristics. Montessori is a child-centered approach designed around the idea that children are naturally intelligent, regardless of race, gender, or socio-economic position, and that the role of education is to provide an opportunity for children to realize their potential. A Montessori education addresses the whole child, including their academic and socio-emotional needs, and empowers them to be confident leaders, even as young children.
The International Montessori School of Erbil asked the Montessori Foundation to help bring this methodology to the KRI. Over the course of the last four years, the Montessori Foundation has worked with the proprietors, investors, students, faculty, and parents to help this school develop into a replicable model that can help transform how education is perceived, not only in Erbil or the KRI, but in the entire region.
Once in Erbil I was surprised by the interest and openness of the faculty and administrators to try something that had never really been attempted. Since 1992 we have worked together to support the school in implementing more characteristics of the Montessori Method. As I grew accustomed to the culture and the city, I became more enamored and impressed by what the KRI has to offer.
Over the years I have amassed a bouquet of experiences that form my profound appreciation for all that makes Erbil special. The restaurant scene ranges from high-end eateries to rustic spots in the bazaar, where I have savored tea and freshly butchered lamb cooked right in front of me. I have relished home-cooked meals with local families, sitting on the floor on lazy Saturday afternoons, surrounded by platters of meat, rice, fruit, and cups of the inevitable tea.
These experiences share a common thread: the genuine warmth of the people and the comfort of shared meals. Although this may seem minor to some, it is a profound hallmark of the region’s culture, an element of hospitality that is exceptionally heartwarming, even when compared to my experiences worldwide, including in my home country.
As an educator, I have always been fascinated by the dichotomy between nomadic and sedentary cultures. With its rich and ancient history, the KRI offers unique insights into this dichotomy. Aside from being the center of Erbil and the reference point for all roads, the Citadel is a city layered upon cities, offering a snapshot of human history. I have been lucky to visit this site with local friends, their narratives enhancing its historical grandeur.
My journeys to Erbil, including during the Covid-19 pandemic, have allowed me to venture into more remote areas of the KRI. I had the chance to travel to the resort town of Soran and the holy site of Lalish, sacred to the Yezidi people.
Each return to Erbil brings fresh astonishment as I witness the city's rapid evolution. The ubiquitous construction cranes and tantalizing ‘coming soon’ signs testify to a city in the midst of growth, attracting others who recognize its potential.
Erbil holds a special place in my heart. Even without mastery of Kurdish or Arabic, I relish strolling its streets and visiting small shops, luxurious hotels, movie theaters, and parks.
Between my experiences as a visitor and having the opportunity to be part of such an important project of bringing a non-traditional and progressive educational system to this part of the world, Erbil has completely transformed my perceptions of the Middle East. As a visitor, I deeply respect this city, its welcoming people, and its unique experiences. It is a place I look forward to exploring for many years to come.
Dr. Robin Howe is an international Montessori consultant with the Montessori Foundation, a nonprofit corporation based in Florida, United States. Dr. Howe works with Montessori school leaders worldwide and holds Montessori credentials at the primary, elementary, and secondary levels
